Showing posts with label travels. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travels. Show all posts
Thursday, 21 February 2013
prawn saganaki (garides saganaki)
Many years ago, when I was an innocent young teenager, my sister Shamu and I travelled to Greece to delight in the wonders of the Mediterranean. We had a wonderful time exploring the ruins in Athens, getting a bit wild with Norwegians on the “Party Island” of the time, Ios, playing at sophistication in Santorini and embarking upon an impromptu road trip with three French girls across Crete from Heraklion to Chania.
In Crete I became incapacitated, throwing my back out from carrying my gigantic backpack, but luckily our travelling companions were trainee physiotherapists who were happy to massage me back to health each evening (merci à Caroline, Julie and Melanie - mes amies française).
It was a fun gaggle of girls posing some interesting language challenges since they didn’t speak English and we didn’t speak French. After living in Italy for the past 7 months I miraculously understood their French and they understood our English, so we each spoke our own languages and somehow we communicated quite efficiently.
It was on this multicultural roadtrip that we stopped off on a deserted beach for lunch. Between two quiet cafés on the beach, we chose the one without any patrons because we could sit under the shade of an umbrella. The menus were all in Greek so the rest of the crew traipsed into the kitchen where the cook pointed out different ingredients in an attempt to mime meal options. When they came back Shamu confessed she’d ordered me something, but wasn’t quite sure what.
As we waited for our mystery lunch to arrive, our empty café started to fill up with locals and by the time they set the food on the table the place was buzzing and alive with vibrant activity. It was so stereotypical and romantic, it was as if we’d stumbled on the set of Greek film. Absolutely magical.
But even more magical was the food they served us. A tomato sauce filled with plump prawns and scattered with melting feta cheese. It was amazing. Pure perfection in a beautiful setting.
We asked the waiter to tell us the name of the dish and when they spoke I wrote down the sounds, perplexed that the dish sounded more Japanese than Greek: saganaki.
Now that I have much more experience with Greek food I know that saganaki, in its various forms, is one of Greece’s most famous dishes and has been successfully exported worldwide.
The prawn version, known as Garides Saganaki, is surprisingly simple to make, and the perfect lunch or dinner whether it’s summer or winter.
Garides Saganaki / Γαριδες Σαγανακι
Prawn Saganaki
Anna’s recipe. Serves 4.
Ingredients:
1 onion, thinly sliced
6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
400g canned tomatoes
1 roasted red pepper, finely sliced
60ml ouzo
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
1 dried bay leaf
150g Greek feta
24 large peeled green prawns
Olive oil, for frying
Crusty white bread, to serve
Method:
1. Preheat oven to 220’C.
2. In a frying pan, heat olive oil in a saucepan then sauté onion and garlic until soft.
3. Add bay leaf, tomato and peppers and simmer for around 5 minutes.
4. Add ouzo, oregano and thyme and simmer for another 5 minutes.
5. Transfer the sauce to a baking dish and crumble over the feta.
6. Bake until feta just starts melting, about 15 minutes.
7. Push the prawns into the tomato sauce and cook for another 5 minutes or until the are opaque and cooked.
8. Serve hot with crusty white bread.
Labels:
main course,
mediterranean,
shellfish,
travels
Wednesday, 25 August 2010
as bruxias, sos del rey católico
view over Sos rooftops to the countryside below |
In June 2010, Jonas and I travelled between San Sebastian and Barcelona, and decided to stay for a few days in a tiny town in the heart of Aragón: Sos del Rey Católico.
Sos is one of the most enchanting medieval hill villages I have ever seen. As one astute travel writer observed, “if this village was in Tuscany is would be overrun by hordes of tourists”. But since it’s hidden deep in the dusty hills of Aragón, we made up two of the five visitors there. Yes, five!
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the many doors of Sos |
I discovered it by pure chance, by searching Google Images for “beautiful medieval village spain”. When I stumbled across some photos of Sos, my mind was made up.
Once I had picked our location, I easily found the most wonderful hotel for us to stay in: El Sueño de Virila.
our terrace, with views over the hills |
When they’d first bought it, the site had been filled with tonnes and tonnes of rubble, and Farnes and her husband took on each room one by one to avoid being overwhelmed by the sheer scale of the renovation. Now, the villa is immaculate and across four floors guests can enjoy a garden, terrace, dining room, bar, living room and library.
Our room had doors opening onto the terrace, and Jonas and I spent quiet hours reading, drinking local wine and looking out over the green hills.
door to our room from the terrace, bonus hammock! |
We stayed in Sos for two nights and ate lunch and dinner at As Bruixas over four meals, such was the quality of food they had to offer. In the end, we tried almost everything on the menu and thoroughly enjoying the local Argonese specialties.
As Bruixas means The Witches and it’s run by two lovely women: Amaia Roldán and Visi Domínguez. In their medieval building, they run a small hotel (three rooms), bar and restaurant trussed up in the decor and style of the 1970s. The venue is kooky and funky, and completed unexpected from the tiny stone street.
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Visi is a published food writer/chef and her impressive and economical menu focuses on the local produce of the Aragón region.
Visi and Amaia host a couple of videos on You Tube too, where you can see the hotel and restaurant for yourself (note: it's all in Spanish).
Ensalada de Cebolla y Pimientos Asados con Anchoas y Vinagreta de Tomate €7.70 Salad of onion, grilled peppers, anchovies and tomato vinaigrette |
Ensalada de Codorniz Escabechada €7.70 Salad of vinegar marinated quail |
Revuelto de Verduras y Virutas de Pato €7.90 Omelette of greens and shaved duck |
Risotto de Hongo Negro con Queso de Cabra €8.10 Risotto of black mushroom and goats cheese |
Ensalada de Patata Confitada y Puerro Aliñada con Vinagreta de Aceituna de Aragón €7.70 Salad of confit potatoes and marinated leeks with a Aragonese black olive vinaigrette |
Ajoarriero de Bacalao € 13.90 Stew of garlic, tomato, peppers and salt cod |
Cochinillo Asado con Manzana €14.20 Roasted boar with apples |
Ternasco Asado con Patatas (Cordero DO.Aragón) €14.20 Roasted lamb with potatoes |
Tarta de Cuajada con Chocolate Caliente € 4.10 Pudding of ewe’s milk curd (or junket) and hot chocolate sauce |
Pacharán Sloe-flavoured liqueur digestif served chilled or on ice |
To be in such a tiny village and eat so well without paying a fortune, it was a fantastic experience. I really salute those two women and the superb food they cook.
To get to Sos, we took a bus from San Sebastian to Pamplona, and then another onto Sanguesa where Farnes picked us up and drove us the final distance. As we neared, the village rose out of the hills, crowning the highest peak with golden hued stone.
Breathtaking.
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Sos in all its glory |
I highly recommend you visit too!
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the tower, up close and surrounded by wild flowers |
Labels:
mediterranean,
north/west europe,
travels
Saturday, 14 August 2010
comerç 24, barcelona
Carles Abellan is a graduate of Ferran Adrià, having worked the stoves at el Bulli in Roses, and has a long career in some of Spain’s illustrious restaurants.
His new venture, Project 24, combines multiple business ventures in one building: a tapas bar, a catering company and a restaurant.
The restaurant, known as Comerç 24, specialises in avant-garde Catalan cooking using creative influences from around the world.
The interior has that artsy-industrial design so typical of Barcelona: frilly metal columns, bricked walls, bright yellow furniture and an open kitchen.
The food was good. Well, to be fair, it was much better than good. It was great.
I think our opinion of Comerç 24 suffered simply because Australia pumps out some amazing restaurants and yet we idolise Europe as some kind of gastro-mecca.
We seem to think that everything coming out of European capitals is surely better than what we produce at home. When we arrive in Barcelona/Paris/London etc we are sad to discover that “1 Michelin star” is just the equivalent to our own “1 Chef Hat” system and not an astronomically higher grade of culinary delight.
Partly to blame is an unfounded European arrogance (based on much-founded history and tradition) and total ignorance of what’s eaten Down Under, and mostly to blame is a sad Australian insecurity that Europe is the only place to be for all things foodie.
The result: Australian foodies dining out in Europe are unfairly disappointed because the food isn’t drastically better than what we eat at home.
But how can you blame a restaurant for this?
And I think Comerç 24 suffered from this unfairness. With retrospect, it was great food and we enjoyed it.
I’d recommend it to anyone looking for modern, tres cool food (that tastes good) in Barcelona.
And the price wasn’t bad either, given the quality, €360 for three people: including degustation menus, cocktails, wine, after dinner drinks and 10%+ tip.
Unfortunately (shamefully) I lost my notes from our dining experience so I have to post the photos without explanations. Please forgive my forgetfulness where I can’t remember the details.
Food photos by Anna. Photos of the restaurant interior and Abellan borrowed from other online sources.
Carrer del Comerç, 24
08003 Barcelona, Ciutat Vella
T: +34 933 19 21 02
www.comerc24.com
View Foodie Destination: Barcelona in a larger map
His new venture, Project 24, combines multiple business ventures in one building: a tapas bar, a catering company and a restaurant.
The restaurant, known as Comerç 24, specialises in avant-garde Catalan cooking using creative influences from around the world.
The interior has that artsy-industrial design so typical of Barcelona: frilly metal columns, bricked walls, bright yellow furniture and an open kitchen.
The food was good. Well, to be fair, it was much better than good. It was great.
I think our opinion of Comerç 24 suffered simply because Australia pumps out some amazing restaurants and yet we idolise Europe as some kind of gastro-mecca.
We seem to think that everything coming out of European capitals is surely better than what we produce at home. When we arrive in Barcelona/Paris/London etc we are sad to discover that “1 Michelin star” is just the equivalent to our own “1 Chef Hat” system and not an astronomically higher grade of culinary delight.
Partly to blame is an unfounded European arrogance (based on much-founded history and tradition) and total ignorance of what’s eaten Down Under, and mostly to blame is a sad Australian insecurity that Europe is the only place to be for all things foodie.
The result: Australian foodies dining out in Europe are unfairly disappointed because the food isn’t drastically better than what we eat at home.
But how can you blame a restaurant for this?
And I think Comerç 24 suffered from this unfairness. With retrospect, it was great food and we enjoyed it.
I’d recommend it to anyone looking for modern, tres cool food (that tastes good) in Barcelona.
And the price wasn’t bad either, given the quality, €360 for three people: including degustation menus, cocktails, wine, after dinner drinks and 10%+ tip.
Unfortunately (shamefully) I lost my notes from our dining experience so I have to post the photos without explanations. Please forgive my forgetfulness where I can’t remember the details.
Filo cigars filled with lemon verbana goats cheese
Octopus carpaccio with ink sauce
Gold-dusted macadamia and anchovy filled olives
Asparagus, herbs, wild strawberries and flower salad
Mackerel sashimi with orange and salad
Tuna tartare in egg yolk
Flowers and soba noodles in a vegetable broth
Truffle and egg "sferification" with a light broth
Truffles and cream
Asparagus and orange
Risotto
Red mullet
Local cheeses
Strawberry crumble with basil sorbet (just delicious!)
Melon and basil soup
Petit fours: oreo cookies, lemon meringue pie, peanut butter & chocolate
Food photos by Anna. Photos of the restaurant interior and Abellan borrowed from other online sources.
Carrer del Comerç, 24
08003 Barcelona, Ciutat Vella
T: +34 933 19 21 02
www.comerc24.com
View Foodie Destination: Barcelona in a larger map
Labels:
mediterranean,
restaurant review,
travels
Wednesday, 28 July 2010
feasting in galicia
A Spanish friend of mine, Maria, has Galician family and before I left for my holiday she instructed me on the wonderful specialties I had to experience while visiting this rugged, coastline embracing the cold Atlantic Ocean. Percebes were a must!
Jonas and I joined Fabio and Special Friend for a road trip along the coast, visiting tiny villages, fishing ports and the numerous (and unexpected) eucalyptus groves.
We started in Vigo, drove north across the autopista bridge overlooking a beautiful bay with many barges and swung through Santiago de Compostela before following the coast all the way south into Portugal.
Apart from some of the spectacular coastal views, my favourite part of Galicia was Santiago de Compostela, a gorgeous medieval town that serves as the final destination on the St James Pilgrimage (a walk starting in southern France and traversing northern Spain).
Santiago was quite a special place and I wish we’d had a few more days there. We saw mass in the lovely old cathedral, the interior garishly gold and the exterior covered in wonderful green moss and plants. It was quite wonderful. In the evening, we loved getting lost in the medieval lanes, wandering from tapas bar to tapas bar.
Pulpo á Feira
Octopus tentacles are dipped repeatedly in boiling water to seal on the colourful skin then cooked until ridiculously tender. It’s flavoured simply with smoky-sweet paprika and olive oil.
Raxo
Cubed pork cooked to perfection, seasoned with a little garlic and served with chips. So simple and delicious.
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A small fishing village |
Navajas
These wonderful clams has been on my “to eat” for more than six years and I was so happy I finally got to eat them in Spain. They are particularly numerous along the Atlantic coast, in Galicia and Basque country, and are best just grilled until they pop open then topped with herbs and olive oil. I just loved them and would happily eat them on a daily basis. They taste similar to scallops but have a texture closer to squid.
Estrella Galicia is a local pale lager and one of Jonas’ favourite beers. I drank some, but not being a beer fan I can’t wax lyrical on its qualities nor compare it to other beers. Suffice to say, many beer connoisseurs do say Estrella Galicia is a good, mass produced brew.
View of a church from the rocky hill tops |
Local cheese and local cured meat. Good, great, best.
Pimientos de Padrón
These small, bite-sized peppers have a wonderful sweet flavour and come slightly charred and sprinkled with salt. It’s said that one in twelve will be extremely spicy, but after eating plates and plates of them throughout our time in Spain I got only one that was even mildly hot. After eating these peppers so often, I might just have overcome my distaste for capsicum.
Bodega Quinta do Buble (from Monterrei, Ourense) is made from 100% godello grapes and the 2009 vintage was an awesome, aromatic, gutsy wine that held up wonderfully against a plate of cured meats and cheeses.
Raya a la Gallega
Skate (sting ray) was poached in water, wine, garlic and paprika then peppers and peas are added and it’s served over sliced, poached potatoes. This particular one wasn’t very well cooked or seasoned, but I’ve seen photos of the dish which look much more intense and delicious so it’s worth a try.
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A pretty fountain near the cathedral entrance in Santiago de Compostela |
Percebes
These wonderfully strange little sea creatures are called goose barnacles in English, although I’ve never heard of them outside Spanish gastronomic dialogues. Does anyone know any other countries that eat them? They grow on rocks and are harvested depending cycles of the moon, being extremely difficult and dangerous to collect. In one small village I did see one man splashing around the rocks cutting lumps off for his dinner.

It was a wonderful holiday and a naturally pretty region, totally undeveloped and without pretention. There's not much in the way of architecture along the coast, but who needs buildings when you have rocky cliffs and sandy beaches.
For more on our recent holiday, check out:
* Food from the Basque Country
* A Fuego Negro, San Sebastian pinxtos bar
* Arzak, three Michelin star restaurant
Labels:
mediterranean,
north/west europe,
travels
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